Cleaning Your Scuba Gear

After use (whether in salt water or fresh water), you should thoroughly rinse all of your gear using fresh, clean water. This will remove any salt & mineral deposits as well as any sediment that may have gotten trapped in your equipment after you dive. When that is complete, dry your gear in a shaded area out of direct sunlight, preferably hanging it to let it drip dry. After it’s dry, return it back to its storage area. You should avoid stowing wet gear as it promotes mold & mildew growth.

Fresh Water Diving – It’s important to note that even when diving fresh water, rinsing your gear is recommended to remove any dirt, debris or any hitchhiking critters (don’t ask, we’ve seen some things). 

Salt Water Diving – Salt water diving requires a more through rinse. When salt water dries, it leaves a coating of salt & minerals on your gear which CAN impede it’s proper operation. As such, we recommend taking a little extra time rinsing things like the regulators, BCD valves & inflators, wetsuit zippers, computers along with all your accessories (reels, lights, SMB’s, etc). 

Below is the “thorough” guide for taking care of your gear. We recommended doing this type of deep cleaning once a month when diving a lot, or before you plan on NOT diving for more than a month at time. While this type of cleaning does take a little time, it helps ensure your equipment is operational and saves you on repair bills.

• BCD’s – Rinse both the outside & inside (the bladder) of your BCD with clean water. You can usually fill the inside by orally inflating the BCD to capacity then depressing the deflate button and running water from a faucet or hose inside the oral inflation orifice. Once you have water inside, turn the BCD upside down a few times to wash out any particulate or saltwater left inside. Drain the water and repeat the process. After 2-3 times, drain ALL the water (using the bottom dump valve) and partially inflate it (so the bladder won’t stick to itself when it dries). Store it partially inflated until your next dive. Don’t worry; if it heats up and becomes over inflated, the over-pressure relief valve will activate and bleed excess air from the BCD. 
• Regulators – First, securely attach your first stage dust cap/cover. If water enters the 1st stage, it will need to be serviced by an authorized technician. Once that is done, thoroughly rinse the outsides and insides of your 2nd stages & SPG/console from a hose OR submerge them into a tub of fresh water. When diving salt water, run fresh water into the mouthpiece(s) of your primary regulator & octo, so that it flushes out the exhaust ports. Then rinse your hoses and finally your first stage. We do NOT recommend submerging your 1st stage as if water permeates the dust cap, it will need servicing. Giving the outside a good rinse is all your 1st stage needs. If you have the opportunity, cleaning your 1st stage while it’s still on a pressurized tank will prevent any water infiltration.
• Wetsuit – Generally using a mild dish soap (like dawn) is sufficient for a quick cleaning. However, there are special anti-bacterial cleaners made for wetsuit cleaning which helps with stains and, uhh, smells. After washing, rinse with fresh water and hang on wetsuit hanger (regular clothes hangers are not ideal and will stretch the material) out of direct sunlight to let it dry. Do not use laundry detergent or harsh chemicals to clean your wetsuit. Definitely don’t put your wetsuit in your washing machine as it will likely destroy it.
• Computers, reels, lights, fins, & accessories – Generally speaking, all you need is to thoroughly rinse with fresh water to keep these items working well. We do recommend activating the springs on clips or fins, pulling on retractor lines, or soaking reels to remove any trapped salt water or sediment.
• Masks & snorkels – If you are cleaning your wetsuit in a bin/tub/basin, throw your mask & snorkel in there as well. Use a washcloth to remove any stuck residue or gunk that has built up. Focus on both the inside and outside of your mask, as that buildup can impact your diving visibility & comfort.
• Cylinders – Scuba cylinders are usually neglected in the cleaning process. However, all they usually need is a good rinse from a freshwater hose. This is especially true with painted steel tanks that have been in salt water. Wiping down the valve interface to your regulator is recommended (and is also a good time to inspect the condition of your yoke O-ring, or the threads on a DIN valve).

Every time you clean your gear, it’s a great opportunity to inspect it for damage, wear & tear, rips, tears, or just a reminder to put that double ender back on your BCD. Your mask & fin straps, regulator mouthpieces, and octo holders are area we generally see the most wear.